Hold'em table

A6o is strong enough to open from the button in a 3-handed game, and raising puts pressure on the blinds while keeping position.

I have As2s, a strong hand with a flush draw and backdoor straight potential. Calling 200 to see a flop is +EV against a min-raise from the button, and I want to keep the pot manageable while realizing my equity.

Closing the action with Kh4h, getting 4:1 pot odds and holding a suited king with some playability. Folding is also fine, but calling for 150 into 600 is a reasonable speculative price.

Top pair with the Ace on the flop is a strong hand, and checking allows me to control the pot size and potentially induce bluffs from the other players.

I have a flush draw but no made hand; checking allows me to see a free turn and avoid building a pot against a preflop raiser on an ace-high board.

I have top two pair on this flop, so I should bet for value and to charge any flush or straight draws. A bet of 600 into the 750 pot puts pressure on my opponents while keeping the pot manageable.

I have top pair with a strong kicker on a dry flop, so calling a small bet is reasonable to keep the pot controlled and avoid overcommitting with a marginal hand.

I have a strong flush draw with Kh4h on an Ah-high board, and closing the action for 600 into a 1950 pot gives good odds with two cards to come.

The board is dry and I have a backdoor flush draw with top pair, but leading out of a checked pot risks building a bigger pot with a marginal hand. Checking keeps the pot controlled and lets me see the river cheaply.

I have a strong combo draw (flush draw plus gutshot straight draw) and want to build the pot while applying pressure. A semi-bluff bet of about 60% pot is optimal here.

Calling 1500 into a 4050 pot with As2s on a dry board is reasonable; I have top pair and can realize equity without overcommitting. Folding is also defensible, but I choose to call to keep the pot manageable and avoid giving seat_3 a free showdown.

I have top pair with the nut flush draw backdoor, but the board is scary and seat_3 just bet big on the turn. Checking to control pot size and induce bluffs is best here.

I hold the nut flush (K-high) on a board where no higher flush is possible, so I bet for value after the opponent checks.

Seat 3's river raise to 4000 with a full pot is a strong value or bluff-catcher signal; my 2s is a bluff catcher at best and calling risks most of my remaining stack with poor equity.

7h5h is a weak hand that relies on hitting a flush or straight, and I'm out of position facing a raise from the big blind. Folding preserves my stack for better spots.

KJo is strong heads-up against the big blind after the button folded. Raising applies pressure, denies a cheap flop, and builds the pot with good equity.

99 is strong heads-up against a small-blind open, so I raise to build the pot and deny equity while keeping the pot manageable with position.

KJo is dominated by the big blind's 3-betting range, and I would be out of position postflop. Folding avoids putting more chips in with a marginal offsuit hand.

T3s is a weak, easily dominated hand, and calling or raising with two players still to act is not profitable. Folding avoids a marginal spot.

QJs is strong enough to raise from the small blind against a single opponent; I'll make a standard min-raise to apply pressure and take initiative.

With 9h3s and facing a raise to 200, the hand is too weak to call or reraise; folding preserves chips.

Calling 50 with Jc9h is reasonable; I have a suited connector and can see a flop cheaply without overcommitting out of position.

Checking with Q2o from the big blind is standard; the hand is too weak to raise against a limper, and I get a free look at the flop.

The pot is small and I have a backdoor flush draw with a gutshot, so I want to see a free card and keep the opponent's bluff frequency high.

With Qs2c on a monotone diamond flop and no diamond, I have little equity and no need to bet into the small blind; checking keeps the pot small and realizes my weak showdown value only if improved.

The board is heavily diamond-coordinated and I hold no diamonds, so I want to control pot size and avoid building a big pot with a weak hand. Checking also keeps my options open to take the pot if the opponent checks back.

Checking back with no diamond and only queen-high; the four-flush board makes bluffing risky, so I'll take a free river card and reassess if checked to again.

Board is a flush-heavy river with no pair; my Jc9h is a weak high-card hand. Checking keeps the pot small and avoids putting chips in with a likely losing hand.

Calling the big blind with 3h Tc on the button is a standard play to see a flop cheaply and potentially realize position. Folding would be too passive, and raising is not justified with this marginal hand without reads.

AJs is a strong 3-handed hand against a button limp; I raise for value and initiative, making the limper and BB pay to continue.

Calling 300 into a pot of 600 gives good immediate odds, and T9o has enough playable equity against the raise even out of position. Folding is too tight at this price.

3h Tc is a weak hand to call a raise with, especially out of position on the button. Folding preserves my stack for better spots.

I have the nut flush draw plus two overcards on a paired board, so a semi-bluff bet of about two-thirds pot applies pressure and builds the pot with strong equity if called.

On the button with a suited king, raising applies pressure on the blinds and avoids playing a weak suited hand passively. A 3x open is a standard size that can take down the blinds or isolate with position.

With Td Jd facing a 300 raise from the button and only 200 to call, the pot odds don't justify continuing with a weak suited connector. Folding preserves my stack for better spots.