Hold'em table

A3 offsuit is a reasonable button open in a three-handed pot. A small raise pressures the blinds while keeping weaker hands in the range.

A9 offsuit is strong enough to three-bet against a button open in a three-handed game. Raising to 950 pressures the opener and discourages the big blind from joining.

65o facing an open and a 3-bet from the small blind is a clear fold; calling 850 out of position with the opener still to act is unprofitable.

A3 offsuit is too weak to continue against this very large 3-bet; calling would leave poor playability and a difficult pot-committed situation.

T3 offsuit is too weak to open profitably from the button against two uncommitted blinds.

A7s is a strong hand blind vs blind, so I'm raising to 3bb for value and initiative.

8♠4♠ is a weak hand against a 3× raise, and calling would leave me out of position with poor playability.

QQ on the button is a premium hand, so I'm open-raising to 2.5bb for value.

42 suited is too weak to defend against a button open, especially with the big blind still to act.

8-4 offsuit is too weak to defend out of position against a 2.5-big-blind button raise.

On the button, 9♠5♣ has enough positional value for a small blind-stealing raise; limping invites both blinds in cheaply.

T6 offsuit is too weak to defend from the small blind against a button raise with the big blind still to act.

Calling 150 into a 400 pot with a small pair against a wide button open gives good pot odds and implied odds with 100bb stacks for set mining.

Small pair on an A-Q-8 board that heavily favors the button's raising range; I'm out of position, so I check and will likely give up if he bets.

A small continuation bet can take advantage of my preflop range on this ace-high flop, and my hand retains backdoor straight and flush possibilities. I keep the sizing modest with no made hand.

Facing a small bet of about one-third pot, I need roughly 20% equity. Pocket threes have some showdown value against a wide button c-bet range, plus set outs, so I call to avoid over-folding.

A pair of threes on a four-card broadway board with an ace and a flush draw has very little showdown value and no good bluffing story, so I'll check and look for a cheap showdown or fold to meaningful pressure.

My hand has little showdown value, but the turn likely connects with many hands that called the flop, and I have a small chance to improve to a straight on the river. I’ll take the free card rather than bluff into that range.

Our 33 barely plays above the board, which has two pair once the 8s pair up, so it only beats missed draws. Villain's checked-back range is heavy with Ax and Qx that won't fold, so a bluff is unlikely to work often enough. Checking gives a cheap showdown.

The river completes the diamond flush and pairs the board, giving me a credible bluffing opportunity after my flop bet. A 600-chip bet pressures one-pair hands without risking an excessive amount.

Our 33 is effectively just a weak two pair and beats almost nothing but pure air. The diamond flush and many straights completed, so a river bet from someone who checked back the turn is rarely a bluff we can beat.

Nine-six offsuit is too weak to open profitably from the button against two players with full stacks.

Blind vs blind, completing for 50 into a 150 pot is a cheap limp with a weak but playable offsuit hand; raising 63o out of position is too loose.

I have a weak offsuit hand and can see the flop for free, so there is no reason to raise.

I have 63 with no pair and no draw on a connected QJT board that hits the big blind's checking range hard, so bluffing out of position has little fold equity. Checking to take a free card is best.

I have no made hand and only weak backdoor possibilities on a highly connected board. Checking keeps the pot small and avoids bluffing into a range that can continue with many draws or pairs.

63 offsuit is complete air with no draw on a highly connected board that hits much of the big blind's range, so bluffing has poor fold equity. Checking keeps the loss minimal.

I have no meaningful pair or draw, and the checked-through action gives no reason to bluff into a connected, paired board. I’ll take the free river card.

My hand only plays the board and loses to any ace, king, eight or pair, so checking wins almost nothing. The opponent checked twice and looks weak, so a small bet repping a straight can fold out their high-card hands.

My 7-high hand does not improve the paired board, and the river bet gives me no reason to expect enough bluffs or worse hands to justify calling.

Pocket sixes on the button in a 3-handed game are a clear open-raise. A 2.5bb sizing takes advantage of position against the blinds.

2d9h is a very weak hand, and calling 200 more from the small blind would leave me out of position against a button raise with poor equity.

Calling 150 into a 400-chip pot with J5 offsuit is a marginal but reasonable defense against a button raise, especially with the small blind's 50 chips already in the pot.

Bottom pair has some showdown value, but betting into the preflop raiser risks building a pot with a weak hand. Checking keeps the pot manageable.

66 on a Q54 two-tone board has decent equity (a gutshot to the 3, overpair to the 5 and 4) and is vulnerable, so a small bet gets value and protection against BB's checking range. A 1/3-pot sizing keeps it cheap if I get raised.

Bottom pair is worth defending against a small flop bet, especially with a backdoor heart draw. Raising would risk too much with a marginal hand.

Bottom pair is a weak showdown hand on this board. Checking controls the pot and avoids building it against stronger hands.

Pocket sixes plus an open-ended straight draw on 5-4-Q-7. A roughly 60% pot bet charges heart draws and overcards, gets value from weaker pairs, and can fold out some Qx or 5x hands, with plenty of outs if called.

Bottom pair has few ways to improve and no flush draw. Facing a second barrel, calling 550 is unlikely to be profitable.