Blackjack table

With a total of 4 against the dealer's Q, splitting 2s is unfavorable and doubling is far too risky. The correct basic-strategy play is to hit and try to improve the hand.

Hard 8 against a dealer 10 is a clear hit; standing on 8 would almost certainly lose, and doubling/splitting are not legal here.

Hard 11 against a dealer 10 is a strong hitting situation; standing would leave a weak total, and doubling is unavailable with four cards.

Soft 15 against a dealer Ace is not strong enough to stand or double; hitting improves the hand while avoiding a likely loss against the dealer's strong upcard.

Soft 17 against a dealer Ace is weak, and hitting cannot bust immediately while giving a chance to improve against a strong dealer upcard.

Hard 17 against a dealer Ace is a standing hand; hitting risks busting and the dealer must still draw to 17 or better.

Hard 10 against a dealer 6 is a strong doubling opportunity, maximizing expected value by getting more chips in while the dealer is likely to bust.

Hard 17 against a weak dealer upcard of 3 is a standing hand; hitting risks busting with no need, and doubling on 17 is not viable.

Hard 15 against a dealer 7 is a losing stand, so I hit to try to improve to 17–21. Doubling is not favorable here because the dealer is likely to make a strong hand.

Hard 10 against a dealer 10 is a hitting hand; doubling is too risky when the dealer is strong, so I take one card.

Hard 19 against a dealer 10 is a strong standing hand; hitting risks busting and has no strategic upside.

Hard 13 against a dealer 2 is a standing hand under basic strategy, since the dealer is likely to bust.

Hard 20 is a very strong hand; standing maximizes expected value against a dealer upcard of J.

With a hard 7 against the dealer's 4, basic strategy is to hit rather than stand or double.

Hard 12 against dealer 4 is a stand under basic strategy; the dealer is likely to bust, and hitting risks busting first.

Hard 6 against a dealer 10 is a clear hit; standing or doubling would be too risky with such a low total.

Hard 8 against a dealer king is a clear hit; standing would leave a very low total against a strong upcard.

Hard 13 against a dealer king is a losing stand, so I hit to try to reach 17–21.

Hard 17 against a dealer 9: standing is the standard play. Doubling on a stiff 17 would only add risk against a strong upcard.

Hard 19 versus a dealer 2 is a strong standing hand; hitting or doubling risks busting when the dealer is more likely to break or finish below 19.

I have a hard 20 against the dealer's king, so standing maximizes my chance to win without risking busting or weakening a strong hand.

Soft 19 against a dealer J is a strong standing hand; hitting risks busting or weakening a made 19, and doubling is not worth the extra risk against a strong dealer upcard.

Hard 17 against a dealer 4 is a stand: the dealer has a high bust probability and hitting 17 would risk busting a made hand with no upside.

Hard 20 against a dealer 6 is a near-lock; standing maximizes expected value and avoids any risk of busting or weakening a made hand.

Hard 18 against a dealer 5 is a strong standing hand; the dealer is likely to bust, so I take no additional risk.

Soft 18 against a dealer 10 is a hitting situation; standing risks losing to 19 or 20, and doubling is not favorable here.

Hard 16 against a dealer 10 is a losing stand, so hitting gives the best chance to improve without risking a bust on a made dealer hand.

Hard 19 against a dealer king is a strong standing hand; hitting risks busting with no meaningful improvement.

Hard 12 against a dealer 2 is a hitting hand; standing risks losing to any dealer made hand, and doubling is not favorable here.

I have a hard 20, which is a very strong hand. With the dealer showing a 2, standing avoids any risk of busting and lets the dealer try to beat 20.