Hold'em table

98o on the button in a 3-handed game is playable, and calling 100 into a 150 pot gives good odds with position, so I take a cheap flop rather than fold or bloat the pot.

76 offsuit has weak playability out of position against a button limp and the big blind still left to act.

J7o is weak; I'm in the BB with a free flop against a limper, so checking is best.

J7 on a 4-5-3 board is weak; I'm in position heads-up and can check and see a free card rather than bluff into seat_1's flat preflop range.

I have a 9-high open-ended straight draw (needing a 6 or 7) on a low board, and the big blind checked. A small bet of about 60% of the pot builds fold equity heads-up and still leaves me strong equity if called.

I hold J7 with an open-ended straight draw (any 6 or 2) on 4-5-3, giving ~32% equity by the river. Calling 150 into a 400 pot is profitable, and folding or raising risks more than needed.

I only hold a weak pair of sevens with a J kicker on a scary connected board; checking keeps the pot small and I can fold to further aggression.

I have a straight, 9-8 on a 4-5-3-7 board, with 6 completing it. Seat 3 checked twice, so I bet for value.

I only hold a pair of sevens with a weak kicker on a connected board (3-4-5-7); the opponent's flop and turn bets strongly suggest a made straight or better, so folding is cheapest.

Holding AJo on the button 3-handed is a standard value open raise.

Jack-three offsuit is a weak hand out of position against a 2.5x raise; folding is clearly best.

4s3s suited in the big blind is getting 400 into 150, about 2.7 to 1, against a button open that can be wide in 3-handed play. Calling is better than folding, and a 3-bet bluff would be too costly.

I have 4s3s on a 6-6-2 board, which is just a weak draw with no pair. I'm out of position against the preflop raiser, so checking keeps the pot small and lets me see the next card cheaply.

Ace-high has decent showdown value on this dry, paired board, so checking back controls the pot and realizes equity.

I have a straight (6-5-4-3-2 with 4s3s on a 6s6h2c5s board, a wheel straight needs an ace; actually 2-3-4-5-6 is a straight). The button checked back the flop, so a modest bet should get value from weaker pairs and draws.}

Facing a 63% pot turn probe on a paired board with only Ace-high and no spade or straight draw, we lack the equity and river playability to continue profitably.

JTo on the button is a standard open-raise; I'll take the initiative and try to win the blinds.

AQo is a strong hand in 3-handed play. Facing a button open of 300 from the small blind, a 3-bet to 1000 is better than calling out of position, and it takes the initiative against a wide button range.

Holding Q5o facing a button open and a SB 3-bet to 10bb is a trivial fold.

J2o is far too weak to call a 3-bet out of position; folding preserves chips for better spots.

K6 offsuit is a weak hand out of position against two players who still have to act behind or around me, so folding is the cleanest choice, though calling 100 for 250 in the pot is only slightly worse.

42o is far too weak to complete or raise from the small blind out of position against the big blind.

I hold pocket aces on the button and open with a standard 2.5bb raise to build the pot.

Pocket kings are a premium hand; I raise for value to build the pot and isolate seat_2's open.

4-3 offsuit is a weak hand facing a button open and a 3-bet to 800, so calling 700 more is unprofitable and folding is clearly correct.

Holding pocket Aces on the button against a 3-bet from the small blind; 4-betting to 2100 for value.

Pocket kings are far ahead of seat_2's 3-bet range; 4-betting to ~6000 applies maximum pressure while keeping a stack behind, and I can still fold to a shove if the board goes badly.

Holding pocket Aces against a 5-bet preflop, shoving all-in is the premier value play.

I hold pocket kings; only pocket aces beats me preflop, and calling 4000 to win a large pot is clearly profitable against a shove range.

8c3c off the button is a weak trash hand; folding preflop is clearly best.

Heads-up against the big blind after the button folded, I only need 50 more to call into a 150 pot, which is 3-to-1. 7-4 offssuit is weak, but the price is good enough to see a flop, and a raise would risk too much with a poor hand.

With 82o in the big blind facing a small blind complete, checking to see a free flop is the standard and highest-EV decision.

I have 7-high with a gutshot-ish draw (4-5-7 with a 2 on board is weak) on a K-high flop, so I'll check and see a free card rather than bluff into the big blind's range.

I have bottom pair with a weak kicker in position in a limped pot, so checking behind controls the pot and realizes equity.

I have 7-high with no pair and no real draw on a K-Q-5-2 board, so showdown value is minimal. Bluffing into a big blind who checked the flop is not clearly profitable, so I check and take a free card.

I have bottom pair on a high board with showdown value; checking behind controls the pot and lets me see a free river.

The board is 5d 2h Kd Qs Ad and I hold 7h 4s, which is only 7-high with a gutshot-type nothing. Seat 2 checked back twice, so their range is capped and weak, and a small bluff could take the pot, but showdown value is zero. I'm choosing a small bet of 100 into the 200 pot as a cheap bluff, because it needs to work only about a third of the time to break even.

Holding bottom pair with a weak kicker on a board with an Ace, King, and Queen, my hand is too weak to call a river bet.