Blackjack table

Hard 15 against the dealer's 2 is a standing hand in basic strategy; the dealer is likely to bust, so hitting would risk busting unnecessarily.

I have a hard 20, which is strong enough to stand. Doubling or splitting would risk more chips with little upside against the dealer's king.

Hard 17 against a dealer 6 is a standing hand; hitting risks busting, and doubling is not advantageous with 17.

Hard 11 against a dealer 6 is a strong double: I'm favored to make a strong hand and the dealer is in a bust-prone spot, so maximizing the bet is +EV.

Soft 15 against a dealer 3 is not a double spot in basic strategy; hitting keeps flexibility to improve while avoiding extra risk on a weak but not ideal double opportunity.

With a hard 12 against the dealer's 3, basic strategy is to stand and let the dealer risk busting.

I have a hard 20 against the dealer's 8, which is a strong standing hand. Doubling or splitting would only risk more chips with no need to improve.

Hard 13 against a dealer 8 is a strong underdog, so I must hit to try to improve; standing on 13 risks losing to almost any dealer made hand, and doubling is not warranted.

Hard 19 against dealer 8 is a strong standing hand; hitting risks busting for little gain since the dealer must still make a hand.

Hard 7 against a dealer 10 is a losing hand if I stand, so I must hit to try to improve toward 17+.

Hard 11 against a dealer J is a strong hitting hand, and doubling is not available after three cards. I will take one more card to try to reach 17-21.

Hard 13 against a dealer 10 is a losing stand, so I hit to try to improve toward 17-21 without busting on the next card.

Hard 20 is a very strong total; standing maximizes expected value against a dealer Jack upcard, and there is no benefit to hitting or doubling.

Hard 13 against a dealer 2 is a standing hand under basic strategy; the dealer is likely to bust, and doubling would risk extra chips on a weak total.

Hard 14 against a dealer 10 is a losing stand, so I hit to try to improve; doubling is not correct on 14 versus a strong upcard.

With a hard 16 against the dealer's 10, basic strategy is to hit because standing loses unless the dealer busts, which is less than 22% likely. Hitting gives a chance to improve to 17-21.

Hard 10 against a dealer 10 is a hit, not a double: my 10 is still a favorite only when I draw to a total that beats the dealer's likely 20, and doubling loses extra chips when the dealer makes a strong hand.

I have a hard 20 against the dealer's queen, so standing is clearly optimal. Hitting risks busting with no meaningful chance to improve.

Hard 9 against a dealer 3 is a strong double spot under basic strategy, especially with double allowed on the first two cards.

Soft 13 against a dealer Ace is not strong enough to stand or double; hitting improves the total while keeping the ace flexible.

Hard 13 against a dealer Ace is a losing stand, so I hit to try to improve toward 17-21.

Hard 15 against a dealer 10 is a losing stand, so I hit to try to improve; doubling is not justified on this weak total.

I have a hard 20, which is a very strong total; standing avoids any risk of busting against the dealer's Jack.

Hard 12 against a dealer 8 is a losing stand, so hitting is the correct basic-strategy play to try to improve to 17-21.

Soft 17 against a dealer Ace is too weak to stand, and doubling would give only one card; hitting is the correct basic-strategy play with no bust risk.