Hold'em table

T3 suited is playable from the button in a three-handed game. Raising gives me initiative and can win the blinds while keeping the pot manageable.

9-2 offsuit is the worst starting hand. Calling 200 more from the small blind, with the big blind still to act behind and a button raise in front, is a losing play, so I fold.

In the big blind versus a button 2.5x open 3-handed, A6o has sufficient equity for the price and defends wide despite being out of position.

Ace-high has some showdown value heads-up on a paired queen board, but no draw to justify raising; check to let the preflop raiser act and control the pot.

Bet small into the paired flop to apply pressure while building the pot with my flush draw. The sizing keeps the risk modest if called or raised.

Calling 180 into 730 needs under 20% equity; Ace-high beats many button c-bet bluffs and flush draws, with Ace outs against Qx or pocket pairs.

With ace-high and a paired board I have some showdown value against draws and bluffs, so I will take the free card rather than fold or build a pot.

I have a weak pair plus a strong flush draw, so checking takes a free river card while avoiding a bloated pot against the flop caller's likely made hands.

Ace-high with paired board has some showdown value against missed spade/straight draws, but is behind any queen, four, or pocket pair. Checking avoids losing more to better hands while letting bluffs and worse draws reach showdown.

My two pair (fours and threes) has some showdown value, but a river bet is unlikely to get called by many worse hands after the flop call. I’ll check back.

K2 offsuit is a weak hand out of position against two players still to act behind in the blinds; folding avoids a marginal, dominated spot at a cost of nothing.

Heads-up against the big blind after the button folded, J4o has reasonable equity for a cheap limp. Calling 50 into 150 lets me see a flop in a small pot rather than folding or overcommitting out of position.

I have a very weak hand and can see the flop for free, so raising has little value.

Bottom pair with a Jack kicker on an Ace-high two-club board is too weak to build a pot heads-up; checking keeps the pot small and lets me evaluate the turn cheaply.

I have no pair or immediate draw, and checking keeps the pot small while preserving the chance to improve.

Opponent checked behind on the flop, capping their range, and the turn completes the flush. A pot-sized bet can fold weak aces and pairs while my bottom pair still has some showdown and improvement outs if called.

My hand has no made pair or meaningful straight draw, and the four-club draw is vulnerable to a higher club. Folding avoids paying a turn bet with weak equity.

On the button in a 3-handed game, K4o is ahead of the blinds' random ranges. Raising takes the initiative in position and can win the blinds outright.

J♥7♥ is playable against a button’s wide opening range, and the price is reasonable. I’ll call rather than inflate the pot out of position with a marginal hand.

Q4s in the big blind getting 600 into 150 (4:1) with a suited queen; button raise is wide, so calling is reasonable and a 3-bet with a weak kicker is not needed.

I have only a gutshot to a straight and a backdoor flush draw, so checking keeps the pot small and lets me see the next card without investing more.

I have a backdoor flush draw and a gutshot-type draw with a queen high on a K-9-8 board. Checking keeps the pot small against two opponents, one of whom raised preflop and is still to act behind me.

Top pair on a draw-heavy K-9-8 board after both opponents checked; a small bet gets value from 9x/8x and straight draws while denying free cards, and I can fold to a raise with my weak kicker.

I have only a gutshot to the ten and a backdoor flush draw, which is not enough equity to continue against a flop bet with another player still involved.

Queen-high with a backdoor heart flush draw and a gutshot-ish connection (Q with K-9-8 gives an open-ended-ish J/10 need; a Jack makes a straight). Getting about 4.5:1 on a small button c-bet after checks, so calling is clearly profitable; raising bloats the pot without much fold equity against a wide range.

I have Qh4h on Kh9d8s5h, so a flush draw with a backdoor-free queen-high. I'm out of position against a flop bettor, so checking to realize equity is simpler than betting into a probable continuation.

Top pair on a draw-heavy K-9-8-5 board after opponent checked turn; betting about half pot gets value from 9x/8x and draws while denying a free river.

I have only queen-high with a heart flush draw and a gutshot-ish backdoor. Facing 700 into 2050 I need about 25% equity, and the board has Kh 9d 8s 5h. Seat 3 has bet flop and turn and is likely to have a made hand, so my draw is too weak to continue profitably.

On the button, 4♦2♦ is weak but has some suited-hand potential; a small open raise uses position and gives us fold equity without investing much.

A4o is a marginal hand facing a 2.5x button open with the big blind still to act. Calling 200 more for a 650 pot offers decent odds, but I'll be out of position, so a 3-bet bluff isn't attractive. Folding is also close; I'm choosing the call because the button's range is wide.

J9o in the big blind needs only 20% equity to call 150 into 600, and it has enough playability against a button raise and small blind call to defend cheaply.

Ace-high with a wheel straight draw (A-4 with 5-6-3) plus a backdoor-to-nut flush draw on a very wet board; I'm first to act in a 3-way pot with 750 in it, so I'm betting about 2/3 pot for value and protection with plenty of equity.

Weak 9-high flush draw on a monotone board facing a 500 donk bet multiway with a player behind; many hearts are dead or give opponents a higher flush, so pot odds are insufficient.

I have a made six-high straight, so I raise for value while charging heart draws on this monotone flop.

I have a 15-out combo draw with a flush draw and an open-ended straight draw, plus an ace. Calling 1200 into a 2950 pot is clearly profitable, and it avoids building a big pot if I'm shoved on.

I have a pair of 4s with a gutshot and a backdoor nut-flush draw on a three-heart board, and the button re-raised me on the flop. Checking keeps the pot small and lets me realize my equity; a bet would fold out worse hands and get called or raised by better ones.

I have a made straight and should bet for value while charging heart draws. A moderate bet limits exposure to higher straights or a slow-played strong hand.

I have a flopped straight (3-4-5-6 plus Ace gives A-2-3-4-5? No: 3,4,5,6 with 4h makes a 6-high straight needs 2 or 7; I have an open-ended draw plus nut flush draw with 4h, so calling is correct).

I have only ace-high after missing both the straight and the flush draws. The opponent bet the flop and turn, so a river bluff is unlikely to work, and checking keeps the pot small and lets me see showdown cheaply.

I have a six-high straight and can value-bet against sets and two pair, while keeping the sizing controlled because higher straights are possible on this board.

I only hold ace-high after missing my straight draw on a heart-heavy board. Seat 1 bet every street, so its range is mostly made hands, and I need about 18% equity to call. I don't expect to beat enough bluffs to reach that, so I fold.

5d3s is a weak offsuit hand, and calling or raising from the button in a 3-handed pot is not profitable here, so I fold.

A7o is a strong hand heads-up in the small blind versus the big blind after the button folded, so I raise to take initiative and build value.

T5 offsuit is weak, but the heads-up pot odds are favorable against a likely wide small-blind raising range. Call rather than inflate the pot with a 3-bet.

Top pair with Ace on a rainbow A-T-8 flop; betting half pot out of position gets value from Tens, eights and straight draws while protecting a weak kicker.

I have a pair of tens and need only about 25% equity to call the half-pot bet. The ace-high board is concerning, but folding would be too tight against a range that can also contain weaker pairs and bluffs.

Top pair with a weak kicker on a very coordinated A-J-T-8 board; checking controls the pot and avoids building it against better aces, two pair, or completed straight draws.

A pair of tens has some showdown value, but the ace and jack on board make it too weak for a confident value bet. I’ll take the free card and keep the pot small.

Top pair on a blank river; opponent checking back the turn makes a straight or two pair less likely, so a small value bet can get called by Tens or Jacks.

The small river bet offers favorable pot odds, and my pair of tens can beat missed draws or a genuine bluff. I’ll bluff-catch rather than raise a hand with limited value.

K9o on the button in 3-handed play is ahead of blind ranges; raising pressures the blinds and takes initiative with position.

8♣4♥ is a very weak offsuit hand from the small blind against a button raise, and calling would leave me out of position with poor playability.

Q7 offsuit is weak and out of position against a button raise. Calling 200 into a 450 pot is close to the price, but the hand plays poorly postflop, so I'm folding.