Hold'em table

9-high with a weak kicker is not worth entering from the button against two blinds at this stack depth.

In a blind-vs-blind spot, 97o is a reasonable small-blind raise. A 3x open applies pressure while keeping the price low.

I have a suited connector in position with good pot odds, so calling is a profitable way to see a flop.

A gutshot to a straight plus a backdoor flush draw on a board that favors the preflop raiser makes a small continuation bet reasonable. The bet has fold equity, and the hand has equity when called.

I have top pair with a decent kicker and am getting good pot odds to continue. Calling keeps the pot manageable while I see the turn.

I only have a weak 9-high flush draw on a monotone-ish board, out of position against a flop caller who likely has pairs or better diamonds, so I'll check and try to realize my equity cheaply.

The turn card completes a possible flush and my top pair is vulnerable, so checking keeps the pot manageable and avoids a check-raise. I can evaluate the river with more information.

A pair of sevens has some showdown value against missed draws, but it rarely gets called by worse hands. Checking to showdown is better than turning it into a bluff.

I have a pair of jacks and the opponent checked the river, suggesting weakness. A small value bet can extract chips from worse hands like lower pairs or missed draws.

Getting over 4:1 against a small river bet after the turn checked through, so my pair of sevens only needs about 19% equity. That's enough to call given the missed straight draws and bluffs in villain's range.

87o on the button in a 3-handed game is a standard open; raising to 2.5bb applies fold equity against both blinds.

J6o is a weak offsuit hand and I'm out of position facing a raise, so folding is the disciplined play.

T7 suited has sufficient equity and playability heads-up against a button min-open/2.5x raise, especially with favorable pot odds. Calling preserves a wide defended range.

With marginal third pair and no heart on a monotone flop, checking keeps the pot controlled and allows the preflop raiser to define their range.

Top pair with a weak kicker on a monotone board; a small bet gets value from worse pairs and draws and denies equity to overcards, while keeping the pot manageable.

Top pair is strong enough to continue versus this small flop continuation bet in a heads-up pot. Calling keeps weaker hands and bluffs in while avoiding an unnecessary raise on the monotone board.

With only a pair and no heart on a four-heart board, checking preserves pot control and avoids inflating the pot against a likely flush-heavy range.

Top pair with no heart on a four-flush board has little value to bet, since worse hands fold and flushes call. Checking behind controls the pot and keeps our showdown value.

The board plays as a flush for any opponent without a heart, so a small river bluff can make their chop hands fold while preserving a favorable risk/reward. My showdown value is only a chop.

I am playing the board flush. The call risks 300 to gain about 475 when we chop, so it breaks even if they hold no heart about 39% of the time. Their small bet and passive line likely leave them without a heart at least that often.

J9o is strong enough to open from the button in a 3-handed game, and raising puts pressure on the blinds to fold. I'll take a standard button open size to try to win the pot preflop or play in position if called.

7-2 offsuit is far too weak to defend from the small blind against a button raise, especially with the big blind still behind.

A3o in the big blind against a 2.5x button open is getting good pot odds (150 to win 400), and the ace blocker makes it a clear defend. Flatting keeps the button's wide range in and avoids bloating the pot out of position.

A3o with only the non-diamond ace and a gutshot to the broadway straight on a monotone high board. It is best to check and give up to aggression, or realize equity cheaply if it checks through.

Ace-high with only a gutshot on a very wet board that hits many button ranges; checking keeps the pot small and realizes some equity for free. The flop check-back was a timeout fallback, so it tells me little about the button's hand.

I have a straight on a wet board, so I want to bet for value and charge any diamond draws or weaker made hands. A moderate bet around 2/3 pot balances extraction with some risk against a possible flush.

I only have ace-high and a gutshot to a straight (about 4 outs, roughly 9%), which is not enough against the 30% pot odds on a monotone board. There is also little showdown value, so folding is best.

Button open with K7 suited is a profitable steal in three-handed play. A 2.5bb raise applies pressure while retaining flexibility postflop.

65o from the small blind against a button open, with the big blind still to act behind, is a clear fold; it plays poorly out of position and a 3-bet bluff with this hand is too thin.

Calling 150 into a pot of 400 gives good pot odds, and J4o is likely playable against a button open in a 3-handed game.

I have a pair of jacks but the king on the flop is concerning against the preflop raiser. Checking keeps the pot small and lets me see what the opponent does.

Betting half pot with top pair extracts value from weaker kings, eights, and draws while denying free cards on the coordinated board.

I have second pair with a king on board and am getting good pot odds, so calling is better than raising into a stronger range.

My pair of jacks is marginal with the ace and king on board, and the opponent showed strength earlier but checked the turn. Checking keeps the pot manageable and lets me see the river cheaply.

Betting for value and protection with top pair after the turn check, while targeting weaker kings, jacks, and draws.

92 offsuit is too weak to open from the button in 3-handed play against two blinds, so folding is standard.

We have a decent hand with position and good pot odds to call the small blind, so I'll see the flop cheaply.

Check back with a weak suited hand and realize equity cheaply in the limped pot.

I have top two pair on a dry flop and should build the pot while charging weaker made hands and straight draws.

On the button with A7o, I can apply pressure on the blinds and take down the dead money; a 3x open is standard.

9-2 suited is far too weak to defend from the small blind against a button raise, especially with the big blind still to act.

Getting 450:200 in the big blind versus a wide button open, 65o has enough equity and playability to defend by calling.

With 65o on K74 I have a gutshot plus backdoor draws, and I'm out of position against the button's range, which is strong on a king-high board. The standard play is to check and then likely call a small c-bet with this draw.

I have top pair with a strong ace kicker on a fairly dry board, so I should bet for value and protection against overcards. A half-pot-sized bet puts pressure on the big blind while keeping the pot manageable.

I hold an open-ended straight draw (a 3 or 8 makes it) plus backdoor equity, facing a small bet of 400 into a 650 pot. That gives about 3.6:1 pot odds, and implied odds make calling profitable.

I have an open-ended straight draw (a 3 or 8 makes the straight) with no made hand. Checking keeps the pot controlled and gives me a cheap chance to see the river, or to call a reasonable bet with 8 outs.

Six-high has no showdown value, and the turn check-back (a fallback check) suggests a weakened range, so a two-thirds-pot bluff can fold out many hands that would win at showdown. If the opponent times out again, the fallback folds.