Hold'em table

Q3s is a standard open from the button in a 3-handed game, where opening ranges are wide; a raise to 2.5bb puts pressure on the blinds.

Calling 200 into a 400 pot with a suited 9-5 gives about 33% equity needed, which is roughly break-even in a three-way pot with the big blind still to act, and the suited hand plays reasonably well.

J5 offsuit is a weak, dominated hand facing a raise and a call from two opponents; even with decent pot odds it plays poorly out of position multiway, so folding is the standard play.

I have only a four-flush draw with no pair, so checking keeps the pot small and gets a free look at the turn card.

Second pair with a weak kicker has showdown value but gets little value from worse hands on an ace-high, two-heart board. Checking back in position controls the pot and avoids getting raised off my equity.

I have a king-high flush (K-Q-9-5-4 of hearts), which is very strong on this board, so I'm betting for value to build the pot while the opponent may still call with weaker holdings.

Third pair with no heart on a three-heart, broadway-heavy turn is in poor shape against a bet of 400 into 600, and has few outs. Calling needs about 29% equity, which this hand likely lacks.

Queen-five suited is a playable button hand in a three-way pot with only a 100-chip call, so I'll see a cheap flop.

A9o in the small blind facing a button limp; raising to isolate the limper and take initiative with a hand that plays well heads-up against a weak limping range.

ATo is too strong to fold against a wide three-handed SB raise over a limp, and we get good pot odds (300 to win 900). Calling also keeps us in position against the SB postflop.

Facing 300 to call into a 900 pot with Q5 suited on the button, I have roughly enough equity against two opponents to justify calling without bloating the pot further.

Nut flush draw plus ace overcard on a low dry-ish board; semi-bluff c-bet for ~40% pot to take it down now or build the pot with strong equity against two callers.

Calling 500 into 1700 needs about 23% equity. Ace-high with an overcard and backdoor flush and wheel draws on a low board is enough to continue against a raiser who often c-bets wide, though seat 2 still acts behind.

I have a four-flush and a two-way straight draw (3s or 6s), so calling 500 into a 2200 pot is well priced against roughly 17 outs across two cards to come.

Top pair with ace kicker plus the nut flush draw on a three-heart board against two callers; betting for value and protection while retaining strong equity if called or raised.

I have a ten-high heart flush draw plus an ace overcard. Calling 1,800 to win 6,300 needs about 29% equity; my direct equity is near 20%, but with deep stacks (7,300 behind) the implied odds make a call reasonable.

I have a made Queen-high flush on a board with three hearts, and calling 1800 into a 6300 pot needs only about 22% equity, which this hand should exceed against two opponents. I'll call rather than risk a raise against possible bigger hearts.

Missed the nut flush draw and hold only second pair with ace kicker against two opponents who called a large turn bet; betting would be a bluff into likely strong holdings, so check and realize showdown value cheaply.

Top pair with an ace kicker is mostly a bluff-catcher on a three-heart board against two players who called down. Betting is unlikely to get worse hands to call, so I'll check and keep the pot controlled.

I have a Queen-high flush on a dry-looking river, and both opponents checked, so checking to showdown keeps the pot controlled without risking a bet into a possible higher flush.

K9o on the button in a 3-handed game is a standard open; raise to 2.5bb to take the initiative against the blinds.

Q8o in the small blind facing a button open, with the big blind still to act behind, is too weak to call or 3-bet profitably. Out of position, it is a clear fold.

Facing a 150-chip call to win a 400-chip pot with a big blind's price, calling a button open with 9-6 offsuit is a reasonable defend against a wide steal range.

I have 9-6 with no pair or meaningful draw on a 2-3-T flop, so checking keeps the pot small and lets me see whether seat_3 bets.

On the button as preflop raiser with K9 on a dry 2-3-T board, a small continuation bet takes down the pot often against a BB caller's wide range; checking back gives a free card but c-betting dry boards at high frequency is profitable here.

Nine-high with no pair and almost no draw facing a 300-chip bet into 850 is a clear fold, since the price is too poor to continue with this hand.

Q7o on the button in 3-handed play is a standard open; a small raise pressures both blinds and takes position.

Nine-queen offsuit is weak out of position against a button raise to 250, and we only have 50 invested with 150 more to call, so folding avoids a marginal, dominated continuation.

6-4 offsuit is a weak hand facing a 2.5x button open from the big blind, out of position for the rest of the hand; folding is the standard play.

K8 offsuit on the button is a playable hand in a 3-way pot, and calling 100 to see a cheap flop is better than folding.

Button limped, I'm in the small blind with 9c5d getting 5:1 to complete for 50 chips into a 250 pot. Offsuit junk but the price is cheap and I can fold to any big blind raise; raising would bloat the pot out of position with a weak hand.

Q2 offsuit is weak, and checking from the big blind takes a free flop in a limped pot. Raising would only isolate me against two hands that may be stronger.

9-high with no draw on an A-Q-7 board out of position against two players; betting has little fold equity and no value, so check and fold to a bet.

Second pair with no kicker on an ace-high board in a limped three-way pot has showdown value but is weak to bet for value. I'll check and take a cheap look, with the button still to act.

I hold K-high with no pair on a A-Q-7 rainbow board, and both opponents checked, so checking to see the turn for free is the sensible line.

I hold 9-high with no pair on an A-Q-T-7 board; only a gutshot-ish nothing (need J for straight? 9-5 with QT... no). Checking keeps the pot small and avoids bluffing into two players on a board that likely connected with someone.

Second pair with a weak kicker on a coordinated board in a three-way limped pot is best played for pot control. Checking keeps the pot small and lets me realize my showdown value.

With only king-high and no made pair on a Q-A-T-7 board, checking is the free option to see the river and avoids building a pot without a strong hand.

I have 9-high with no pair on a checked-down board; bluffing into two players for a tiny pot is low value, and checking back realizes showdown for free.

Second pair with the worst kicker has showdown value but gets called mostly by better hands, so I'll check and try to reach showdown cheaply.

I hold King-high with no pair on a board showing an ace, queen, and ten, so I can't profitably bet into two players who both checked. Checking takes the free showdown.

Q7 suited on the button in a 3-handed game is a standard open; raising to 2.5bb gives fold equity and positional advantage postflop.

92o from the small blind facing a button open, with the big blind still to act behind, is a clear fold.

Facing a 150-chip call from the button with 400 in the pot, getting about 2.7:1 is enough to continue with suited Q4 in the big blind, which is a reasonable price.

Queen-high with no pair and no spade draw on a 7-2-6 rainbow-ish board, so I have little equity to bet and should check to see the next card for free.

Top pair with Q kicker on a monotone club board; a small bet for thin value and protection against the BB's many one-club draws and overcards, while keeping pot manageable since we lack a club.

Heads-up against the button's small flop bet, I'm getting about 20% pot odds with Q-high, which is close to my equity against a wide continuation-betting range, so calling is a reasonable marginal play.

We hold a pair of fours with a queen kicker on a four-club board, which is a medium-strength hand. Checking keeps the pot small and lets us see whether the aggressor keeps betting.

Four clubs on board and I hold no club; my top pair is weak against any single club. Checking back controls the pot and keeps my showdown value against non-flush hands.

I hold two pair (sevens and fours) on a four-club board, which is strong but vulnerable to a higher two pair or a flush draw that missed, and a free check keeps the pot small while I see whether seat_3 bets.

Trips sevens with Q kicker on a four-club board; opponent checked turn and river so a flush seems less likely. Small value bet targets non-club pairs and worse 7x, and we can fold to a check-raise.

Heads-up on the river with a pair of fours and a queen kicker, facing a 300 chip bet into a 1210 chip pot. That price needs about 20% equity, and the bet size is small enough that it may be a bluff, so calling is reasonable.