Hold'em table

J-T offsuit is a strong opening hand on the button in 3-handed play, so I raise to take initiative and build value.

A7o in the small blind against a button open in 3-handed play is a reasonable 3-bet candidate, and the ace blocker helps. Calling out of position with the BB still behind is worse, so 3-bet to 10bb.

8h6h suited is too weak to continue against a raise and a big 3-bet to 1000 from the small blind; folding preserves chips for better spots.

JTo is dominated by a large SB 3-bet range and lacks the equity and playability to call 7.5bb more out of a 100bb stack, even in position.

KTo on the button 3-handed is a clear open-raise; 2.5x pressures both blinds.

T3 offsuit facing a raise from the button is a clear fold from the small blind; not worth defending with such a weak hand.

Q6 suited has sufficient equity against a wide button 2.5x open getting good pot odds in the big blind, and plays better as a call than a 3-bet out of position.

Top pair with a weak kicker on a draw-heavy board is a medium-strength hand out of position; checking controls the pot and lets the preflop raiser bluff or bet worse while avoiding building a large pot.

KT on Q97 two-tone gives a gutshot to the J plus an overcard, and it connects well with my button opening range. A c-bet of about 64% pot puts pressure on the big blind's weak hands while keeping my equity.

Top pair on a draw-heavy board is too strong to fold to a single flop bet from the button raiser, but my weak kicker makes raising unattractive. Calling keeps bluffs and draws in while controlling the pot.

Trips on a three-spade board is strong but vulnerable to flushes and better queens, so check to control the pot and induce another bet from the aggressive button.

King-high with only a gutshot on a paired board where the flush just got there has little showdown value, and the opponent's flop call means they rarely fold here. Checking behind takes a free card at the straight and keeps the pot small.

I have queens full of sixes, near the nuts on this board, losing only to Q with a higher paired kicker or quad sixes. Betting large for value targets spade flushes, trip queens, and strong pairs that would check behind.

King-high has almost no showdown value against a river lead: most of villain's bluffs, such as missed draws or ace-high, still beat it. Calling 1000 to win 3250 needs about 31% equity, which this hand doesn't have.

TJ offsuit is a reasonable button raising hand heads-up-ish; raising to 300 applies pressure and builds pot with positional advantage.

2c8h is a very weak offsuit hand facing a button raise to 300; calling 250 from the small blind out of position has negative expectation.

QJo is well ahead of a wide 3-handed button opening range. Getting 650 to 200, defending by calling is clearly profitable, and a 3-bet is also reasonable, but calling keeps the button's weaker hands in.

Open-ended straight draw plus a backdoor flush draw, out of position against the button raiser. Checking keeps the pot controlled and lets me check-raise or realize equity; a donk-lead isn't necessary here.

I have top pair with a strong kicker (JT on T95 board with gutshot/overpair potential), so I bet for value against a checking opponent.

QJ gives me an open-ended straight draw (K or 8) plus two overcards, and a backdoor flush draw. That is too strong to fold against a 400 bet into 1050, so calling in position-disadvantaged spots keeps the pot controlled while I realize my equity.

With an open-ended straight draw plus overcards, checking to the preflop and flop aggressor keeps the pot controlled. I can then call a reasonable turn bet with good equity.

Top pair with a strong kicker on a dry-ish board; opponent's check suggests weakness, so a value bet is appropriate.

I have an open-ended straight draw (a K or 8 completes it) plus two overcards. The pot odds are close, and the implied odds with 84bb behind make this a profitable call.

Queen-high missed the straight draw, and the button double-barreled into my check-calls, so their range is mostly made pairs that would call a river lead. Checking keeps my losses down and gives a small chance to win a showdown if they missed and check back.

I have top pair (tens) with a jack kicker on a dry board, and the opponent has shown passive calling behavior; a value bet extracts additional chips from weaker hands.

Queen-high missed both straight draws and beats almost nothing in a triple-barrel range, since even busted ace- or king-high diamond draws beat it. A bluff-raise after check-calling every street is not credible enough to justify the risk.

T8o is a playable button open in 3-handed play; raising applies pressure to the blinds and lets me play in position.

42o out of the small blind facing a button open to 2.5bb with the big blind still to act is a clear fold.

Facing a raise with a weak offsuit low connector (5d8d suited actually, but still weak), not worth calling out of position against a raiser and a cold deck.

J8o on the button in 3-handed play is a standard open; a raise to 2.5bb applies steal pressure on both blinds.

AQo in the big blind dominates a wide button opening range, so I 3-bet for value and to take the initiative heads-up out of position.

J8o is too weak to call a 3-bet to 800 out of position-agnostic ranges; pot odds of 550 into 1650 don't justify defending such a dominated offsuit hand.

Suited Q7 on the button is a reasonable speculative hand to see a cheap flop in a 3-handed pot; calling keeps costs low.

Completing for only 50 into a 250 pot with a suited hand gives excellent pot odds, outweighing the positional disadvantage and weak ranks.

84o is weak and out of position in a limped pot, so I'll take the free flop rather than raise.

With 2h7h on Kd Jc 4h I have only a backdoor flush draw and no pair, so checking for free is best rather than bluffing into two opponents on a high board.

Bottom pair with a weak kicker on a K-J board in a three-way limped pot has little value and poor protection potential. Checking keeps the pot small and lets me see the turn cheaply.

Both opponents checked flop; I have an open-ended straight draw (Q with J-K on board, needing T or A) and can semi-bluff for value while applying pressure.

With 7-high, no pair and only a backdoor heart draw on K-J-4, I lack the equity to call 150 into 450 against the button's flop bet.

Bottom pair on a limped pot facing a small bet: we only need 25% equity, and bottom pair has enough showdown value against a button stab.

Bottom pair plus a heart flush draw has showdown value and decent equity, so checking keeps the pot controlled. I can call a reasonable bet from a button player who may just be stabbing.

I have no pair and no draw on this board; opponent called my flop bet so likely has some equity, better to check and reassess on the river rather than bluff further.

Bottom pair has some showdown value against a range that stabbed the flop and then checked back the turn. Betting would mostly get called by better hands and fold out worse, so I'll check.

I only have a weak pair of sevens with modest kickers; no reason to bet into a likely similar or better range, so I'll check and see showdown.