Hold'em table

4-9 offsuit is a weak hand in a 3-handed pot and plays poorly out of position postflop. Folding the button costs nothing extra, so I'll wait for a better spot.

J2 offsuit is a weak hand to play out of position against the big blind; folding the small blind is the standard play here.

Qh5h suited on the button in a 3-handed game is a standard open; raise to 2.5bb to take initiative and steal blinds or play in position.

74o from the small blind against a button open, with the big blind still to act, is a clear fold. It plays out of position and is dominated far too often.

JTo is a decent hand in the big blind against a button min-ish raise in 3-handed play. Calling 150 to win a 400 pot gives good odds, and I will have position disadvantage but plenty of playability.

Top pair with a decent kicker on a dry flop, heads-up and out of position; a bet of about 64% pot gets value from worse pairs and draws, and denies equity to overcards.

Q5 suited completely whiffed on Ts 7c 4d with only queen-high and no draw; facing a sizable donk bet of 350 into 550 there is little equity or fold equity to justify continuing.

94 offsuit is too weak to open even from the button in 3-handed play at 100bb deep, so folding is the clear choice.

Ace-queen offsuit is a strong hand heads-up against the big blind, so I raise for value from the small blind. A 3x raise builds the pot while I have a hand that plays well.

8-4 offsuit is a weak hand facing a 3x raise from the small blind; calling 200 to see a flop out of position with poor equity and playability is unprofitable, so folding is best.

Q9o on the button in 3-handed play is a reasonable hand to see a flop with. Calling 100 to win a 250 pot is a good price, and the hand is not strong enough to raise for value.

T6 suited in the small blind facing a limp from the button; completing for 50 into a 250 pot gives great odds with a hand that can flop flush draws and straights. Raising would bloat the pot out of position with a marginal hand.

A8s is well ahead of two limped ranges, so an iso-raise from the BB to 450 builds the pot with initiative and can take it down preflop.

Q9o on the button facing a 4.5x big blind raise from the big blind, with the small blind still to act behind, is a weak hand that plays poorly out of position against a likely strong range. Calling 350 to win 650 is not worth the risk, so I fold.

T6 suited is a weak hand facing a 4.5x squeeze from the big blind out of position; calling 350 more into 650 with poor playability isn't profitable.

Pocket kings on the button; open to a standard 2.5bb to build the pot with a premium hand while keeping blinds in with worse.

T4o from the small blind facing a button open, with the big blind still to act, is a clear fold: it is out of position and dominated too often.

KTo is a solid hand in the big blind against a button min-raise-ish open of 2.5bb in 3-handed play. Calling 150 to win a 400 pot is a good price, and I keep the pot small out of position.

Flop J-J-Q with K-T gives an open-ended straight draw (A or 9 completes) plus a king overcard. I'm first to act heads-up against a button raiser, so a small bet works as a semi-bluff and builds the pot when ahead or drawing.

Overpair on a paired JJQ board facing a small donk bet; raising mostly folds out worse hands and only gets action from Jx/Qx that beat or tie-ish me, so I call and keep bluffs and weaker queens in while controlling the pot.

Board is JJQ2 and I hold K-high with a Q-board; I have only a weak showdown hand (K kicker, no pair beyond the board). I flop-raised earlier, but checking to control the pot is better against a caller on the button who likely has a Q or a jack.

KK is an overpair on a paired JJQ board; BB donked the flop then checked the turn, which looks like Qx or a draw giving up. Bet for value and protection against Qx, straight draws, and flush draws while keeping the sizing moderate in case of a slowplayed jack.

I hold king-high on a JJQ2 board, so I'm well behind any Jack or Queen and ahead of little else. Calling 700 into a 1850 pot needs about 27% equity. That price is okay only if the button is bluffing here after I checked the turn, but I only have a few outs and little reason to raise. Calling keeps me in against a wide button betting range.<br>

I hold king-high on a J-J-Q-2-7 board, so I can only win at showdown against a rare bluff. Seat 2 bet the turn and is likely to call a bet with better hands, so betting is poor value and I check.

KK is likely best against a BB range of Qx, middling pairs, and Ax that donk-bet the flop then check-called the turn; a ~43% pot value bet gets called by worse while keeping it manageable if a Jx or boat check-raises.

Board is J J Q 2 7 and I hold K-high, which only beats a bluff. Pot odds need about 23% equity, and a call fits since the button may be bluffing, though a fold is close.

A5 suited-ace equivalent (offsuit) is a clear open from the button in 3-handed play; a standard 2.5bb raise.

Queens are a premium hand in the small blind facing a button open. A 3-bet to 900 builds the pot and punishes the big blind's calling range, and it protects against two opponents seeing a cheap flop.

T7 offsuit facing a 3-bet with the original raiser still to act is a clear fold from the big blind.

A5o has a good ace blocker against the small blind's 3-bet range, which is wide 3-handed, so a 4-bet bluff to 2300 in position works better than calling with a hand that is often dominated. If they shove, I can fold.

QQ is a strong hand facing a button open and a 4-bet after my 3-bet. A 5-bet to 6000 builds the pot and gets value from worse hands, and I can still call a shove with the remaining stack.

Facing a 5-bet that commits SB, A5o has roughly 25-30% equity against a value-heavy range. That is well below the ~48% needed to get all-in, so I fold despite the chips already invested.