Blackjack table

With a total of 20 against a dealer upcard of J, standing is the optimal play; hitting or doubling risks busting, and splitting 10s is unfavorable.

Hard 15 against a dealer 10 is a losing stand, so hitting gives the best chance to improve without risking an unnecessary double.

Hard 19 against a dealer 10 is a strong standing hand; hitting or doubling would only risk busting or increasing stakes with no strategic benefit.

Soft 18 against a dealer 2 is a standing hand in basic strategy; doubling is not favorable here, and the dealer stands on soft 17.

Split the pair of 8s against the dealer's 10; 16 is a losing stand and splitting gives two better starting hands with double-after-split available.

Hard 18 against a dealer queen is a strong standing hand; hitting risks busting and doubling is not worth the extra risk when the dealer likely has 17-21.

With a soft 19 against the dealer's queen, standing is clearly best; hitting or doubling risks turning a strong total into a much weaker hand, while 19 already beats most dealer outcomes.

A hard 20 is a very strong standing hand, and the dealer's 5 is a favorable upcard; hitting, doubling, or splitting would only risk losing a near-certain winner.

Hard 14 against a dealer 10 is not strong enough to stand; basic strategy calls for a hit. Doubling is not advisable because the hand is too weak and the dealer shows a strong upcard.

Hard 16 against a dealer 7 is a losing stand; basic strategy is to hit to try to improve.

Hard 17 against a dealer 7 is a standing hand; hitting risks busting with no strong chance to improve enough to beat a likely made dealer hand.

Hard 13 versus a dealer 2 is too weak to stand profitably; hitting gives the best chance to improve without risking an extra doubled stake.

Hard 20 is a near-lock; standing against a dealer 5 maximizes EV, since hitting, doubling, or splitting tens would only risk a strong made hand.

Hard 12 against a dealer 9 is a losing stand, so I hit to try to reach 17–21. Doubling is not favorable with 12 versus a strong upcard.

Hard 13 against a dealer 9 is a losing stand, so I hit to try to improve to 17 or better and avoid the dealer's likely strong total.

Hard 18 against dealer 2 is a clear standing hand; hitting risks busting and doubling is not advantageous.

Hard 19 against dealer 5 is a strong standing hand; hitting or doubling risks busting or wasting extra chips with no need to improve.

With a hard 9 against a dealer 10, basic strategy is to hit rather than double because doubling would add more money to a losing situation. The dealer has a strong upcard, so I take one card and reassess.

Hard 16 against a dealer 10 is a losing stand; hitting gives a chance to improve without busting risk beyond the unavoidable. With no surrender or double available, hit is the correct basic-strategy play.

Hard 15 against a dealer 7 is a losing stand, so I hit to try to improve to 17-21.

Hard 19 against dealer 8 is a strong standing hand; hitting risks busting, and doubling is not advantageous when the dealer is not weak enough to justify more risk.

Hard 17 against a dealer 10 is a standing hand; hitting risks busting, and doubling is not favorable here.

Soft 18 against a dealer 4 is a profitable double spot; maximizing value with the dealer likely to bust.

Hard 12 against a dealer 8 is a losing stand, so I hit to try to reach 17–21. Doubling is not appropriate with a weak total against a strong upcard.

Hard 13 against a dealer 8 is a losing stand, so I hit to try to improve to a stronger total.