Blackjack table

With a hard 14 against the dealer's 10, basic strategy is to hit rather than split or stand; splitting 7s is not favorable versus a 10.

Hard 18 against a dealer 10 is a standing hand; hitting risks busting, and no double or split is available.

Hard 16 against a dealer 7 is a losing standing hand, so I hit to try to improve; doubling on 16 is not appropriate here.

Soft 18 against a dealer 4 is a favorable double spot; doubling presses the edge while standing is the fallback if doubling were unavailable.

Hard 13 against a dealer 10 is a losing stand, so I hit to try to improve toward 17–21. Doubling is not justified with a weak total against a strong upcard.

Hard 17 against a dealer 2 is a standing hand in multi-deck blackjack; hitting risks busting, and doubling would only add risk without improving a made total.

Hard 13 against a dealer 9 is a losing stand, so I hit to try to improve to a stronger total.

Hard 19 against a dealer 9 is a strong standing hand; hitting risks busting and cannot improve profitably enough. Dealer has already peeked for blackjack, so standing is the correct basic-strategy play.

Soft 17 vs dealer 10 is a hit in basic strategy; standing loses to most dealer totals and doubling is not recommended against a 10.

Soft 18 is a losing stand against a dealer 10, so I hit to try to improve to 19-21 or a stronger total, accepting the bust risk.

Hard 18 against a dealer Q is a standing hand; hitting risks busting and does not improve enough to justify the risk.

Hard 12 against a dealer 7 is a losing stand, so I hit to try to reach 17–21. Doubling is not appropriate with a weak 12 against a strong upcard.

Hard 16 against a dealer 7 is a losing stand in expectation, so hitting gives the best chance to improve without busting too often relative to standing.

I have a hard 20 against the dealer's 7, so standing is clearly optimal and avoids any risk of busting.

Hard 19 against a dealer 9 is a strong standing hand; hitting risks busting and doubling would only add risk with no strategic benefit.

Hard 13 against a dealer 9 is a losing stand, so I hit to try to improve toward 17-21.

Hard 6 against a dealer 7 is a losing stand, so I hit to try to improve toward 17 or better. Doubling is not justified with such a weak total.

Hard 15 against a dealer 7 is a losing stand, so I hit to try to improve to a stronger total.

Hard 8 against a dealer 10 is a hitting hand; standing leaves too little chance to win, and doubling adds risk without enough expected value.

Hard 13 against a dealer 10 is a losing stand, so I hit to try to reach 17–21. The dealer's upcard is too strong to stand on 13.

I have a hard 20, which is a very strong hand. With the dealer showing a jack, standing maximizes my chance to win without risking busting.

Hard 10 against a dealer 6 is a strong double opportunity, maximizing value from a favorable situation.

Hard 10 against a dealer 7 is a strong double opportunity, maximizing value when I likely make 20 or 21 while the dealer is vulnerable.

Hard 20 against a dealer queen is a strong standing hand; hitting or doubling risks busting a near-certain winner.

Hard 7 against a dealer 5 is a favorable double-down spot, so I’ll double to maximize value while the dealer is weak.

Hard 15 against a dealer 4 is a stand under basic strategy; the dealer has a high bust probability and hitting risks busting a made total.

With a hard 6 against the dealer's 8, hitting is the correct basic-strategy play; splitting 3s or doubling here would increase risk without improving expected value.

Hard 16 against a dealer 8 is a losing stand, so I must hit to try to improve; the dealer is too strong to hope for a bust.

Hard 17 against a dealer 8 is a standing hand; hitting risks busting and the dealer must still draw to 17 or more.