Hold'em table

94o is too weak to open from the button even in 3-handed play.

Heads-up against the big blind with 7h9d, a suited-ish connected hand with decent equity. Completing for 50 more gets a good price (pot odds 3:1), so I call rather than fold or bloat the pot out of position.

JTs plays well heads-up and is strong enough to raise for value against a small-blind limp.

7-9 offsuit is weak out of position against a 4x raise from the big blind. Calling 300 more into a 700 pot with a poor hand is not profitable, so I fold.

On the button in a 3-handed game, 8c7d is a suited-connector-like hand (offsuit, but still playable) with good pot odds of 100 to win 250, so calling to see a flop is reasonable without inflating the pot.

Completing the small blind costs 50 into a 250-chip pot. J6 offsuit is weak, but the price is good enough to see a flop against a limp.

Holding T7s in the big blind facing two limpers, checking to see a free flop multiway is standard.

With no heart and little connection to this monotone flop, I’ll check rather than build a multiway pot.

I flopped top pair on a monotone board without a heart in multiway pot, so checking to control the pot size is the best line.

I have a pair of sevens on a three-heart flop with the button position, and both opponents checked. A small bet gets value from weaker pairs and charges heart draws, and it can take the pot down now.

With no heart, pair, or meaningful draw on a monotone flop, J-high is too weak to continue against a bet.

I hold top pair on a monotone board facing a button stab in a limped pot. Getting 2.5:1 pot odds, calling one bet is profitable against bluffs and draws.

Four hearts on the board and we hold no heart; checking is the standard play with second pair and no flush draw.

With only a pair of sevens on a four-heart board and no heart, my hand has some showdown value but is unlikely to get called by worse. Betting would mostly fold out worse hands and get called by flushes, so I check.

The board has five hearts, giving both players at least a King-high flush. Checking to realize a potential split pot without risking chips against a higher heart.

The board is a five-heart flush and I hold no heart, so I only play the board. Any opponent heart beats me and anything else ties, so a bet gains nothing. Checking is best.

J9 offsuit is strong enough to open on the button three-handed. A 2.5 big blind raise pressures the blinds without committing too much.

Holding 42o out of position against a button raise is an easy and standard fold.

A3s in the big blind is a good hand against a button open to 250, and calling 150 into a 400 pot gets a good price. Calling keeps the pot small out of position, and the hand is not strong enough for a 3-bet.

I have ace-high with a backdoor nut-flush draw on a Q-K-T board that also gives me a gutshot to the nut straight (J). Checking out of position keeps the pot small and lets me see a free card against the preflop raiser.

I have a king-high straight on a monotone flop. A substantial bet gets value from worse hands and charges diamond draws.

Ace-high with the nut-flush-draw-blocking As isn't a flush draw (As is a spade), but I hold a gutshot to Broadway (A-K-Q-T needs J) on a KQT board, giving 4 outs plus ace-high. Pot odds are 1000+450 to 450 (about 3.2:1), so a call is profitable versus a button c-bet range.

I have ace-high with a backdoor nut-flush draw at best (no diamond), and the board is Qd Kd Td 7c. I also hold a gutshot to Broadway (J), and the button bet the flop. Checking keeps the pot small and lets me see the river cheaply.

I have a king-high straight. Betting for value charges diamond draws and weaker made hands, while avoiding an unnecessarily large pot on a three-diamond board.

I hold A-high with a backdoor nut-flush-less draw only (3c, As; no diamonds) on a Q-K-T-7 board with three diamonds. Calling 950 into 2400 needs about 28% equity, and my only outs are an ace for a straight, which is at most 3-4 outs against a betting range that is strong, so I should fold.

Opening Kc 7c on the button for 2.25bb, which is standard in 3-handed play.

5-6 offsuit is weak from the small blind facing a button open, with the big blind still to act behind me. Calling 175 more out of position in a 3-way pot is not profitable, so I fold.

The small blind has folded, and J4 offsuit has enough equity against a button opening range to defend the big blind for 125 chips.

I have middle pair with a weak kicker on a coordinated flop. Checking keeps the pot manageable and lets me assess the button’s action.

I have top pair with a weak kicker on a wet board; checking back controls the pot size and under-reps my hand.

My weak pair has some showdown value, but this board favors the preflop raiser. Checking keeps the pot manageable.

I have second pair with a weak kicker on an Ace-turn board; checking back controls the pot and realizes showdown value in position.

My pair of jacks has some showdown value, but worse hands are unlikely to call a river bet on this board. Checking avoids turning it into a bluff.

I have second pair with a weak kicker on an Ace-high board with three diamonds. Checking behind realizes my showdown value without risking a check-raise.

9-2 offsuit is the weakest hand in three-handed play. Calling 100 out of position against two players would lose chips over time, so I fold on the button.

Q7 offsuit is playable heads-up against the big blind. Raising gives me a chance to win the pot now and takes the initiative.

Folding T3s to a 3bb small blind open as it lacks sufficient playability and equity.

A7 offsuit is strong enough to open on the button three-handed. A 2.5-big-blind raise pressures the blinds while keeping the pot manageable.

Holding 92s in the small blind facing a button open is an easy fold due to poor playability and being out of position.

In the big blind with 6-5 offsuit, I get 400 to 150 pot odds (about 27% equity needed) against a button min-raise from the button's wide range. 65o has enough equity and playability to call and see a flop, and a 3-bet bluff is unnecessary.

I have 6-5 on a 7-K-4 flop, which gives me a gutshot straight draw (an 8 or 3 doesn't complete it, only an 8 with the 4-5-6-7 makes a straight; 3 also makes 3-4-5-6-7). That is an open-ended draw with 8 outs to a straight. I'm out of position against the button, so checking to control the pot and see a free card is reasonable.

Middle pair with a strong kicker has good showdown value on this dry board. Checking keeps the pot manageable and lets weaker hands remain in.

I have a gutshot straight draw (6-5 on a 7-K-4-T board needs an 8 for the 9-high... actually 8 gives 4-5-6-7-8) plus the button checked the flop, which signals weakness. A small semi-bluff bet of about 2/3 pot can win the pot now and I still have outs if called.

The turn bet is small enough to continue with a pair of sevens and an ace kicker. Position lets me assess the river before committing more chips.

The board is 7d Ks 4c Th Td and I hold 6d 5h, so I have only 6-high with no pair or draw. I bet the turn and was called, and the opponent on the button can beat me with any king, ten, or pocket pair, so I take the free showdown and check.

My two pair has showdown value, but a river bet is unlikely to get called by enough worse hands. Checking avoids a costly response from a king or ten.